NOTE: After proper acclimation, open cartons just prior to installation.

NOTE: Power Dekor Laminate flooring is intended to be installed as a floating floor system. Do not secure flooring to underfloor.

Storage & Handing

Thoroughly inspect laminate panels before installation. The warranty does not cover labour for repair or replacement when a panel with visual defects has been permanently installed. No claims will be honoured for visual defects in permanently installed panels.

Always store flooring horizontally in the original, unopened package.

The storage area must be climate controlled with a temperature range between 65℉ and 90℉ (18℃ and 32℃) and a relative humidity not exceeding 65%.

Do not stack pallets more than 3 high. Store pallets so they are protected from forklifts or other traffic. Protect package corners during storage.

Always handle cartons carefully. Do not puncture packaging. Cartons should not be opened until time of installation.

Jobsite Conditions

Under normal conditions Power Dekor Laminate flooring does not need to be acclimated to the job site. If extreme temperature and humidity variations exist during storage or transportation, acclimating the laminate flooring to jobsite conditions is recommended.

In all cases, jobsite temperature should be at least 65℉ and no greater than 100℉and the relative humidity should not exceed 65%. The temperature and humidity must be controlled and maintained within the ranged described above for the life of the laminate flooring.

If a single room exceeds 2000 square feet or has a length or width greater than 45 lineal feet, additional expansion gap will be required. T-Moldings should be used.

Subfloor/Underfloor Recommendations & Preparation

Subfloors must be structurally sound, clean, dry and smooth. Subfloor variations should not exceed 3.18mm in 1.8m. All high spots must be sanded or ground.

You may install Power Dekor Laminate flooring over existing resilient floor coverings, wood flooring and ceramic tile (grout joints must be levelled).

Appropriate laminate underlayment must be used when installing over all hard surfaces.

Do not install Power Dekor Laminate flooring on top of carpeting.

Do not install Power Dekor Laminate flooring in high-humidity areas where the floor is usually wet (steam rooms or saunas).

Getting Started

Assemble all required tools listed below before beginning the installation process.

Tools & Materials:Appropriate underlayment; Spacing wedges 1 cm; Tensioning tool; Utility knife; Tapping block; Pencil; Tape measure; Carpenter’s square; Transition mouldings; Hand or power jamb saw; Circular or mitre saw; Drill; Chalk line; Safety glasses *

*Always wear safety glassed when using a hammer or power equipment. Follow safety instructions and MSDS Data Sheets.

Don’t forget to order mouldings that blend with the flooring. Before installing the first panel, select a dozen or more panels that closely blend with the moulding.

For future repairs, wrap remaining panels in original shrink wrapping and store in a normal, dry interior storage area.

Remove existing wall base, trim, and transition mouldings. Measure out the entire work area. Undercut all door casings so the new flooring will fit underneath. Use a scrap piece of the new laminate flooring as a guide. Make the cut using a hand or power jamb saw. Be certain to allow enough room under the casing for an expansion gap.

Inspect each plank before installing it. Remove any manufacturing residues from the tongue and groove before installing.

Determine in which direction the panels will be laid. As a general rule, the longdimension of the panels should be laid parallel to the longest wall. When possible lay out panels parallel to the light coming in from windows.

A minimum 8mmexpansion gap must be provided at all walls and fixed vertical surfaces.

When installing in a bathroom the expansion gap must be filled using 100% silicone caulking compound. Additionally, all exterior expansion gaps as well as the gap around the toilet flange must be filled.

Make sure the last row of panels to be laid in the work area will be more than 50.8mm wide. If not, the first panel to be laid in the work area must be cut to compensate the difference on the last panel.

Cover entire installation area with the appropriate underlayment. Install one sheet net along the starting wall. Unroll only one sheet at a time during panel installation to prevent damaging the underlayment. Once the first sheet of underlayment is covered with laminate flooring, install the second sheet. Do not overlap sheets. But the two edges of the sheet together and seal with sealing tape or duct tape. Always use appropriate underlayment; never install laminate flooring directly over exposed substrates.


Carefully measure the room to determine squares of the area and to provide for a “balanced”layout. If the width of the last row of planks will be less than one half of the panel width, adjust the width of the first row of planks by rip cutting the panels.

If the wall along the first row of planks is irregular, scribe the planks to fit the wall and cut.

Always lay planks for left to right, with the tongue side against the starting wall. Remove the tongue on the first row of the planks to provide for a solid edge at the wall juncture. Provide an 8mm expansion gap at all fixed vertical surfaces.

Just as the work area was laid out to provide for a balanced width it should also be “balanced” to avoid having any short planks at either the beginning or end of a row. Plan the plank layout to have the first plank and the last plank in a row to be at least 300mm long.

Being the installation by laying the first plank on the floor with the tongue side to the wall, cut off the tongue profile. (Refer to photo 1) With a slight angle, position the end tongue of the second plank in the first row into the end groove of the first plank and lock into position(refer to photo 2).

Being second row with at least 300mm stagger of end joints, assemble the first panel in the second row to the adjacent panel in the first row by slightly angling tongue into groove until plank locks into position. Insert the tongue at about a 20º angle and lock the planks together. (Use non-marring blue tape to secure the panel across the assembled joint to hold it in place.)

Position the end tongue of the second plank over the first plank in the second row, approximately 3.175mm to 6.35mm away from the side groove. Lock the end seam together (refer to photo 3). Always lock the end (“head”) seams together before connecting side seams (refer to photo 4).

Continue laying the floor from left to right, plank after plank, row after row. Maintain an 8mm expansion gap at all fixed vertical surfaces. Work from several different cartons to minimize “clustering” of patterns. Maintain a random stagger of end seams. Unroll additional widths of the appropriate laminate underlayment as required.

The last row of panels will more than likely need to be cut to fix. If not, it is still necessary to cut off the groove profile to provide a full plank thickness at the wall. If nothing prevents angling this last row of planks into position, proceed as normal to complete the installation.

If there are obstacles (door casing, toe kicks, radiators) that prevent the last row of panels from being angled into position it may be necessary to lightly plane or sand off a bit of the locking profile of the groove and tongue:

Position the panel onto the already installed rows; slide the panel under the obstruction. It’s a good practice to pre-fit the panel to make certain it will slide into place before applying adhesive.

Separate the panel to completely expose the groove.

Apply a light coat of adhesive onto the groove; slide the last row panel back into position (refer to photo 5). If necessary use a last board puller to position the panel and lightly tap panel to close any gaps. Wipe off excess glue.

Remove spacers and install appropriate trims and mouldings.